百味松如
1921-1993
Food reveals character —
if the heat isn't right, don't serve it;
if the heart isn't sincere, it's not a dish.
Chen Songru (1921–1993), born in Ziyang, Sichuan, left home at twelve to learn cooking. In 1959, at the direction of Premier Zhou Enlai, he went to Beijing to establish the Beijing Sichuan Restaurant and served as its first head chef. He entered Zhongnanhai three times to cook for Mao Zedong, served Zhou Enlai, Zhu De, Chen Yi, and numerous foreign dignitaries for over thirty years. In 1992 he received the Oriental Cuisine Annual Honor from the World Master Chefs Association. This site is an independent, non-profit digital archive and online exhibition, researching how Chen Songru and 20th-century Sichuan cuisine journeyed from local restaurants to state banquets, public publication, and cross-border exchange.
Guided Routes
Choose a route based on who you are — every stop is clickable.
Nine gateways into the world of an old-school craftsman
This archive is compiled from the authorized biographical manuscript Songru: A Culinary Life, Chen Songru's own autobiography, family accounts, writings by his disciples, and independent media reports, organized along four threads: Memorial — Craft — Wisdom — Lineage.
A heart without selfishness makes heaven and earth wide.
On January 16, 1993, Chen Songru, after his usual morning work, suffered a sudden heart attack while walking near the Sichuan Restaurant and passed away at age 72. A memorial service was held at Beijing's Babaoshan. These words are inscribed on his tombstone.
Words he left behind
A steady hand and a calm heart — only then can you taste the true nature of an ingredient.
— Admonition from his master Zhou Guangting, internalized by Chen Songru for life
"Faced with such a complex mix of people, the attitude I took was neither too close nor too distant, neither too familiar nor too cold. Everything must be considered carefully from the perspective of the work."
Handling kitchen faction disputes · Ch. 13 §1
"Take this bowl of noodles to the Premier. And quietly, add a little plain water to the Premier's wine glass."
Quietly diluting Zhou Enlai's wine · Ch. 7 §2
"It's nothing, just a little cold. There's no need to make a fuss."
His last words to his family · Ch. 12 §9 · Character flaw, not saintly narrative
"This apron — Tinglong will wear it one day."
To his wife Jiang Mingshu, later relayed to his eldest son · The Chen Kitchen Ch. 2 §2
"Tinglong, remember: you must master the chopping board. Seven parts chopping, three parts fire — skill lives on the board."
Teaching his eldest son · The Chen Kitchen Ch. 3 §4